Conceit

07/12/2011

2 Comments

 
As rare as hens teeth, a 'Conceit' is a ceramic object designed to look like a cake, set on the table to give the appearance of there being more food than there is. Conceived, designed and produced by Josiah Wedgwood, a fabulous innovator of table presentation ware, but more popularly known for his cameos and dinner sets.  The irony here is that if you could afford Wedgewood's ware, then you could afford to put food on the table. Unless, of course, one's priorities were different.

During the war years, in the living memory of many, a wedding or celebration cake was also a rare thing. Instead, a box would be iced with plaster of paris, and a more modest cake put underneath, and as the time came to cut the cake, the box would be removed. So, the appearance of food more symbolic and for display, rather than for consumption. Wedding cakes were highly nutritious, preserving fruit with sugar and alcohol, providing long term sustainance, as well as the tradition of the top layer of the cake kept to celebrate the Christening of the first child.

This is a poppy seed knot with a Conceit. The circular windows are for display, as a fully enclosed box would also serve as a dust cover for any ornament on the cake for eating. This is my first foray into royal icing and it's lovely stuff to work with, but strong hands are needed to ice a very stiff mixture of egg and sugar. In it's state of whiteness, before a tint was applied, it looked like a folly, or mausoleum, or one of those above-ground burial chambers in New Orleans. Colours fashionable at the time of Wedgwoods' original Conceits are gorgeous - milky, warm sugar almond Neoclassical tints of pigs-blood pink, mossy-minty green and duck egg blue. Lovely.

 


Comments

Alex Barrett
07/14/2011 16:39

“Strong hands are needed..” to craft this dainty structure, and I find that to be so very powerful, the overall effect is of something that is indeed very feminine, and yet force and strength come into the equation in equal measure. The idea of food as decoration, to the point where it ceases to serve its fundamental function is fascinating; a ceramic cake may look just as beautiful and edible, but certainly wouldn’t make a very good meal. Dressing the table, and indeed the various ritualised qualities that you’ve made light of, wedding cakes and traditions, the saving of the top tier for another ceremonious occasion, serves to highlight again the varies uses of food. Providing nourishment is the first and foremost quality we have come to expect, but we invest so much more in our meals.

I’m particularly taken by the placing of the bread within the mausoleum like box, we’ve spoken of bread as body, and now I can see such symbolism beyond that first point of reference. I’m seeing “us” and our society placed at the very heart of our culinary traditions and rituals here. Indeed it makes every sense that we are so invested in food, it is a requirement, and it keeps us alive, thus building a mythology in the same sense as anything else that reminds us of our mortality. To place reverence on a meal or foodstuff is essentially a celebration of life, in that it defies death. I’m reminded of old tales regarding sacrifices in the cornfields, blood spilt on the ground prompting the Gods to favour the next harvest. Certainly there is more to food than the mundane and every day, rather is serves as a grounding between all parts of our existence, and thus takes on a life of its own.

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Alex Barrett
07/14/2011 17:05

*various - the problem with writing these comments in the early hours of the morning is that I fail to instantly spot such mistakes.

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